The Western States® 100-Mile Endurance Run is the world’s oldest 100 mile trail race. The Run starts in Olympic Valley, California, near the site of the 1960 Winter Olympics, and ends 100.2 miles later in Auburn, California. In the decades since its inception in 1974, Western States has come to …
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The Western States® 100-Mile Endurance Run is the world’s oldest 100 mile trail race. The Run starts in Olympic Valley, California, near the site of the 1960 Winter Olympics, and ends 100.2 miles later in Auburn, California. In the decades since its inception in 1974, Western States has come to represent one of the ultimate endurance tests in the world.
Traversing the traditional lands of the Nisenan, Washoe, and other neighboring Indigenous Peoples, the Western States Trail climbs more than 18,000 feet and descends nearly 23,000 feet before runners reach the finish at Placer High School in Auburn.
In the miles between Olympic Valley and Auburn, runners experience the majestic high country of Emigrant Pass and the Granite Chief Wilderness, the crucible of the canyons of the California gold country, a memorable crossing of the ice cold waters of the Middle Fork of the American River, and finally the historic reddish brown trails that led many travelers, including gold prospectors, to Auburn.
For almost five decades, Western States has been home to some of the sport’s most stirring and legendary competitions. With more than 1,500 dedicated volunteers helping to create a once-in-a-lifetime experience, the Run has stirred the spirit of runners from all walks of life, from all over the globe. Offering the sport’s oldest and most prized possession – a sub-24-hour silver belt buckle and a sub-30-hour bronze belt buckle – Western States remains one of the undisputed crown jewels of human endurance.
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A Race That Lives Up To The Hype
After 5 years of qualifiers, I was convinced I would never be selected to run this conveted race. A few days before the December 2022 lottery, I was lucky enough … MORE
After 5 years of qualifiers, I was convinced I would never be selected to run this conveted race. A few days before the December 2022 lottery, I was lucky enough to be offered a sponsor spot that gave me entry to the 2023 and bypass another year of likely not being selected in the lottery. It’s so incredibly difficult to get picked for this race so of course I had say yes.
After months of training, it was finally almost race time. There are numerous events to attend the week of the race and although I wanted to attend, I also needed the rest. I did go to the flag ceremony the Thursday before the race at Palisades High Camp which was pretty fascinating.
On Friday, the day before the race, we had to go to mandatory race registration for our bibs, drop off drop bags and also attend a mandatory race briefing. I planned to stay that day until after the briefing with my crew so we could see it all and soak everything in it.
We showed up at race registration and immediately went to the vendor area to see what was going on. We received some free things and then went to race registration so I could get my bib and picture taken! I also picked up my race swag which consisted of a Hoka brand race bag, socks, Goodr sunglasses, a buff, a reusable cup, a book co-written by Tim Twietmeyer and some Hoka slides. All pretty awesome! I also got a picture with elite runner Nikki Kimball putting on my race wristband.
We attended the race briefing where we learned a lot about the race and then it was time to go.
After a 3am wake up and a 4am departure to drive the 5 minutes from our cabin to Olympic Village for the race start, the nerves and energy were both extremely high. I found a couple of friends who were also running, said bye to my family and friends and headed to line up for the start. We found a spot in the middle of the pack and soon the countdown was on. We took off and were able to run a few minutes before the climbing began.
After a very long winter, there is still plenty of snow on the mountain. The snow began after a couple of miles and was pretty continuous until we got to the top, known as the escarpment. There were so many people up there cheering for the runners and it was great to see some friends! The escarpment is the highest point in the race which has a nice descent following it. We had a nice break from the snow as we headed down the backside of the mountain, but it wasn’t long before it started again. We had more miles of snow, mud and cold streams to cross before we hit the first aid station. Heading to aid 2 was more snow and another fall where my calf cramped and I was worried it might take me out to the race. I kept moving and it seemed to be okay. After that, it was more off and on snow until mile 23 or so, right before aid 3. I was happy to have a break from it because everyone was slipping on the icy snow and plenty of runners, including myself, were falling.
Around mile 27, we had a creek crossing with a slack line to help us get across safely. The water was moving quickly and I sank to my waist in one spot. We had a couple of miles that were a gradual climb to the mile 30 Robinson flat aid which was the best aid and I had a chance to dry out. My legs were cramping a little from all of the snow miles and I was trying to get back to feeling good. A little before this aid, we had some more snow patches, but I was happy to finally be able to see my crew.
After a lot of hugs, a quick sock change, more sunscreen applied, I grabbed some food and took off. I was really concerned about being behind on my pace chart and not making the cutoffs. I called my first pacer and talked to him for a few minutes and he assured me I was doing great with plenty of buffer. It was okay if i walked for a little while so I chose to walk/run the next few miles. This next section until almost mile 46 ish was primarily downhill. I made a friend who was around my pace and we spent miles 41-46 together before the big climb to devil’s thumb where she pulled ahead. I was getting pretty hot on this climb (1.7 miles of switchbacks and 1,500 ft of elevation gain) so I put on my music as a distraction and focused on getting to the top. I caught the friend a little before the top and we headed into the aid. We both refilled and grabbed food before taking off together for more miles. We had a little more climbing until the infamous water pump and then there were more miles of runnable downhill to El Dorado creek. I made it to the aid after the creek and prepared myself for the next climb which would eventually bring me to Michigan Bluff where my crew and first pacer were waiting for me.
It was the best feeling getting into Michigan Bluff and seeing so many people. I had some other friends there waiting for their runners, but also saw my husband and parents with my crew. I was developing some hot spots on the sides of my big toes and wanted to change my socks. My amazing friend Sallie wrapped my toes, changed my socks again and my pacer Keith and I headed out again. Soon it was dark and we needed our headlamps. We arrived at Foresthill and were again met by my crew and parents, ready to help. It was a short break where I got some soup and coke to drink to help keep me awake.
After hours of achy quads, dark miles and concerns about being too slow, we finally made it to the river crossing. It was a boat year due to the heavy water flow and the break was a very needed one. My husband and second pacer were waiting on the other side of the river and were ready to hike up with us.
Almost 2 miles later, we made it to the top where the aid was and my second pacer Jake and I were on our way with a little over 20 miles to the finish. This is when I hit my lowest low and was just ready to be done. I couldn’t stop crying, I didn’t know if I would make it to the end with time to spare and I was in a very bad place. Jake gave us trying to reassure me we had plenty of time and we focused on getting to the the aid stations.
I asked my crew to skip the aid station at mile 94 so we wouldn’t waste time, but they showed up anyway which was definitely needed. At this point, I had plenty of time to make it to the end and just wanted to get there. I was moving slowly on the rocks and roots as the miles ticked off and pretty soon we were crossing No Hands Bridge with only a few miles left. We made it up the last climb before Robie Point and I saw my family and friends waiting to head to the finish with me. Along the way we saw other friends there for the race and famous ultra runner Sally Mcrae. We got to the infamous track and my crew, pacers, husband and I headed for the finish line. I saw more friends cheering for me as I ran towards the end and crossed the final timing mat.
It was an incredible and magical race that is absolutely worth running. It was much harder than I thought it was going to be, but it was an amazing weekend having so many people there to support me! There’s a reason it’s so popular and it’s absolutely worth it.
Iconic west coast trail 100 mile
Was and still is one of the iconic trail races in the US. Lots of hype and lots of activities pre-race at race HQ. The race starts with a several … MORE
Was and still is one of the iconic trail races in the US. Lots of hype and lots of activities pre-race at race HQ. The race starts with a several mile climb up the escarpment. The top gives a great view of lake tahoe area. From there it’s rolling hills, mostly single track all the way to the canyon portion of the race. The canyons are hot and the descent and ascents are significant, with Devil’s Thumb (47) and Michigan Bluff (55) climbs taking almost 2 miles each. Once you reach Foresthill (62miles-super fun and exciting aid station) you can have a pacer join you and if your legs are feeling good the rolling (mostly) downhill to the American river crossing can be fast. Once crossing the river its a short, steep climb to Green Gate (80). The final 20 miles are “runnable” single track, although still rolling. There is a good bit of uphill in the final miles to reach the road at Robie Point aid station(99) and a steep hill just past it, but from there its a joyous downhill to the track at Placer HS and the finish line